Damn Good Pie

Wisdom, Montana: population 80, and home to some of the best pie under the Big Sky…

One of about three active businesses in town, the Crossing Bar, is where owner Diane Havig spends most of her days. Here, she greets those who walk through the door; it may be the locals (some of her most loyal pie connoisseurs), the fishermen fresh off the Big Hole River that runs through town, the bikers (both the motorized and the peddlers) who are taking the scenic Bitterroot loop, and those who travel the distance just for an authentic home cooked meal and a slice, or two, of Diane’s famous pie.

Photography by Lynn Donaldson

Photography by Lynn Donaldson

Aside from chatting with the customers, Diane’s the self-proclaimed “do-it-all girl,” waiting tables, washing dishes, whipping up a chicken fried steak from scratch (grilled, not fried), making homemade bread and salad dressing, and putting the magic touches on her pie crusts and fillings.

Depending on the day, Diane is whipping up buttermilk custard, a chocolate bottom peanut butter pie, a rhubarb cream pie, or her famous Fruit of the Forest with rhubarb, apple, strawberries, blackberries and cherries. Some pies call for flakey crust coverings, and others for lattice tops to release some moisture. Diane’s secret ingredient is orange juice, but that’s about all I can divulge.

Pie Collage 2b

“We’re at 6,000 feet, and at higher altitudes you need more moisture in the crust, so you can roll it and flip it without it being too delicate,” Diane said. “I also like making a thin crust so you get more of the flavor of the fruit or filling.”

Pie Collage 3

Wisdom is located along the Big Hole Valley scenic drive, an unforgettable 82-mile loop with views of the Bitterroot and Pioneer mountains, the Big Hole River, and great stopping points like the Crossing Bar. Stop in, say “hi” to Diane, and don’t forget to leave room for pie.

Other mouth-watering pies under the Big Sky:

On The Fly Pie
Utica Day Fair – Annual Utica Women’s Club Pie Sale: Held the Sunday after Labor Day weekend, in conjunction with “What the Hay” festival in the small town of Utica. Stop by the historic cabin that serves as the Utica Women’s Club, and score homemade pies to die for.

Pie Collage 4

Gateway Orchard Fruit Stand on Montana Highway 35 just north of Polson: Stop by for huckleberry pie and other seasonal filler flavors, along with canned Flathead cherries, jams and jellies.

Anytime Pies
Stop into these epic, small town cafes for delicious pie year round:
Yesterday’s Calf-A, Dell
Park Café, St. Mary
Stray Bullet Café, Ovando
Avon Family Café, Avon

Pie Collage 5b

***

“This is a recipe that I’ve used for 18 years. It was in the recipe file from my previous restaurant, The Big Hole Crossing. I did make one adjustment four years ago when a customer suggested I use vanilla extract instead of nutmeg for the spice. The vanilla brings out the flavor of the rhubarb more.”
–Courtesy of Diane Havig, The Crossing Bar, Wisdom

Crust:
1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup Crisco
1/3 cup orange juice

In a food processor, blend flour and salt. Add Crisco, pulsing until it’s fully blended. Place in a large, shallow bowl. Add orange juice, half at a time, gently tossing after each addition. Compress into two balls.

Filling:
4-5 cups chopped rhubarb, fresh or thaw frozen and partially drained
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix filling ingredients together and place on top of the uncooked bottom crust in a 9-inch glass pie plate. Make the top crust into a lattice, allowing steam to escape for a better set. Put an egg wash on the top, and cover the edges with foil. Place pie in a 375-degree oven for approximately one hour. The pie will be brown on the top and bottom, and puff up slightly in the middle.

Thank you to Montana Magazine, where Lynn & Corinne’s article was originally published.

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